How to make a A-line skirt without a pattern

I was thinking back and remembered a skirt I made. I might even still have it, but it's in a box..... in storage...... with a friend...... so I'm not sure. But I got to thinking about the process I went through, so I thought I'd share.

Several years ago my ex and I participated in an organization that held Live Action Role Playing, or LARPs every summer. Well, they still do, but I'm not part of the group anymore. It's not an SCA group, it's strictly fantasy role playing. And as part of the game one wore costumes. 

The first year my ex and I participated a friend who made my wedding gown made me a bodice based on the bodice of my gown. I just needed to come up with a skirt. I managed to find a nice bit of cotton in a white and pink thin stripe. Problem was, I had no decent skirt patterns.

As I was contemplating what to do, my mum-in-law suggested cutting the fabric diagonally to get the flare I'd need to go over my hips. So I sat down at my cutting table and tried to work it out. I knew she was on the right track but I only had one shot at getting it right so this was going to take a good long think. This skirt needed to be long, and it needed to go over my hips and fit my waist. So I took some measurements. I took my waist to floor measurement, then my waist and hips measurements.

I'll demonstrate using a bit of paper. And remember that all this is being done on fabric that has been folded in half lengthwise.

First measure the length of the fabric and mark the waist-to-floor measurement plus about 5 inches to accommodate a hem, truing up the hem and waist lines, and either a seam for a waistband or a casing for elastic.

 Then cut off the extra fabric. That extra fabric can be used for a waistband if so desired.

 

 Now to actually shape the skirt. I divided both my waist and hip measurements by 4. Then measuring from the fold at one end I marked the waist measurement calculation. From that mark I measured the distance down from my waist to my hips and then marked my hip measurement calculation. I repeated the steps along the selvage edge at the other end of the fabric. The marks should be diagonally at opposite ends of the fabric. It's kind of hard to see the marks I made on the paper so I circled them. I probably should have used a marker instead of just a ballpoint pen so you could see them better.


I then folded the fabric in half diagonally from the waist marks making sure the hip marking was inside the width of the narrow end of each fabric triangle. You can sort of see the one hip mark to the left of the dark smudge on on the narrow end of the fold. As you can see it is on the narrow side of the fold, so all is good.

TThen I cut along the fold. In order to keep the fold properly aligned I pinned the fabric down to itself to be sure it didn't shift while I was cutting. I didn't think to show that on the demonstration paper.

So this is what the fabric should look like after cutting. One side is two layers of fabric with the selvage edge, the other side is one piece on the fold.

Now to shape the waist. First, I just folded each fabric triangle in half lengthwise.




Second, I trimmed the top at an angle to the two long edges. The amount trimmed off  depends on whether or not you plan to make a casing for elastic or if you are planing to have a waistband with a zip. And if you plan to have an elastic waist the the opening needs to be larger that your waist to accommodate going around other larger body parts.

To shape the hemline I did the same thing.
If you're worried about the straight lines, don't be. The fullness will disguise them all.

This is what the single pieces will look like after they've been trimmed. You'll end up with 3 skirt pieces, a front and 2 back.











Remember earlier I mentioned that the fabric I had was a stripe? Well I had decided that I wanted the stripes to form a chevron at the front and back seam. So I took the skirt piece that had been cut on the fold and cut it down the fold making it 2 pieces. And because it was a small enough stripe it didn't matter if I was off a bit when I stitched up the seams. The chevron was pointed up and it made me look a bit thinner.

Now you have a basic A-line skirt. If you want you can add pockets. You could either side seam or patch pocket. And you can make the as long or as short as you need it to be. And you did it all without the need of a pattern.

Butterick Pattern #6359, Fun Jumper Wrap Dress, a Review

It's been a while since I made myself a new dress, and now since I joined any online group called the Curvy Sewing Collective I've really been feeling the need for some new dresses.

I've made some things in the past from the Connie Crawford collection available through Butterick patterns and I really like her designs. And there's the added bonus of all her patterns are designed for curvy girls like me. Her patterns range in size XS to 6X. And trust me, I've made the 6X in a few things.

My latest project is a dress that Connie Crawford has had on her own website for years. It's # B6359. She released it to Butterick this summer and I jumped at the chance. Plus, it helped that the Butterick website had all their patterns on sale for $1.99. So I got several hundred dollars worth of patterns for just over $100. Sweet!

<---- This is the pattern. It's a wrap dress that is really simple. In their description they call this a "Loose-fitting, flared wrap dress has neck binding, front overlay, tie closures, shaped hemline, and narrow hem. [View] A: Sleeveless and armhole binding. [View] B: Short sleeves."

These are the fabrics for the dress. The flower print is the main colour. It was labeled a "shirting" fabric but I think it's actually a poplin with a little bit of Lycra because there is a slight stretch to the fabric. That's good because it allows my large backside a little extra room.  The "Grasshopper Green" is the contrast. That name, Grasshopper Green, was the name given it by Fashion Fabrics Club, which is where I got both fabrics. You can check out their website here. While neither fabric is available anymore, they do have plenty of other fabrics to chose from.

First I traced out the pattern pieces. This is something that I do to preserve the original pattern. Because I am losing weight, if I needed to change sizes I can just trace out another pattern. The layout calls for opening up the fabric because the four front pieces are all Cut 1. The back is placed on the fold and it is this piece that proved to me that you can't scrimp on the fabric, at least not the 4X through 6X sizes. It calls for 60" wide fabric and you really do need it that wide. My fabric was only 58" wide and the pattern piece went over the selvedge by an inch at the corner of the hem and the side seam. I ended up adding a piece about an inch and a half wide. Though after the seam allowances and the hem it's really hard to see. I sewed it and I can't tell.

I added the sleeves to View A with the contrasting colour because I decided I really needed to have sleeves. Though I may do it again as a sleeveless version.

I also added pockets because I Must Have POCKETS!! Really, I absolutely Must have pockets in all my dresses and skirts so I added side seam pockets. I just traced out a pocket from another Connie Crawford pattern and added extra width to the side seam allowances at the waistline mark. This proved interesting with the left front pieces. The contrast piece at the bottom comes almost to the waist and I had to make sure to add enough to the side seam of both pieces and allow for the seam joining the contrast piece to the main piece. I actually didn't add enough to the contrast pocket seam so I'll have to fix that for the next dress.

Among the pattern pieces is one for cutting out bias strips for the neck and armhole binding, and the ties. I saw that and was confused. But then I realized it's probably a good idea for those who don't know how to cut out bias binding. Me, I just ignored it and cut my own binding. I found it much simpler. After all when the pieces are cut out there is certainly plenty of fabric left. But if you're one of those who need a pattern piece like that, by all means, use it.

If you do decide to make the contrast version with sleeves be sure to get a half a yard extra fabric to make sure you have enough. It helped that I already had 2 yards of the green. I had gotten it for a shirt for my Gent, but he didn't like the feel of the fabric.

Size range: All Connie Crawford patterns for Butterick have 2 size ranges - Misses: XS-XL and Womens: XXL-6X. The 6X is 66"-68" bust, 56"-58" waist, 74"-76" hip, and 24" biceps. The biceps measurement is on the Women's size range mostly because a lot of us curvy girls need to take that into consideration with our sleeves.

What size did you make? 5X for the whole pattern. Sometimes I have to grade out to a 6X for the hips even though my hip measurement is in the 5X range. Thankfully I didn't have to with this pattern.

What are your measurements, height, and body type? 
Bust: 62" Waist 54" Hips: 70"
Height: 5' 4" Body type: pearish

What adjustments did you make?
I didn't make any adjustments. I just did some add-ons, though I can't really call the sleeves an add-on because the pattern already calls for them in a different view. I did add side seam pockets and they worked fine. They just need a little adjustment to make them just right. 

What was the construction process like? Did the instructions make sense to you?
The construction process was pretty straightforward and the instructions made sense. Though you need to pay attention to seam allowances. While most of the seams are 5/8", there are some seams are marked for 3/8". For those seams and for the depth of the hems I wrote on the differences next to the drawings in the instructions so I wouldn't forget.

How do you like the pattern's fit? Do you think the design works well for your particular body shape?
The fit is great. The wrap design isn't tight at all. It's a good design for pretty much any shape.   

Will you make the pattern again? If so, what design changes will you make?
I already have plans for the next dress. I've gotten lots of complements on it. The ease of getting in and out of the dress is perfect for me. Though the top overlay can make one overheated in hot weather (something we've been having a lot of lately here in Upstate New York). So I may leave it off in another version. And I do need to add some length to the back. A longer skirt in the back means my legs don't get burned or stuck on vinyl or leather car seats.

Do you have any advice on this pattern for other curvy sewers? Are there any resources (blog posts, fitting books, tutorials) that helped you sew this piece up?
The only advice I can give is this. If you don't know how to make bias binding, learn. Because the pattern piece for the bias binding is easily moved no matter how well it's placed and pinned. Any good sewing book has instructions.

Pattern Rating (1-5, with 5 being the highest rating)

Size Range: 5 Connie Crawford's patterns have the largest selection of sizes for larger curvy girls.

Instructions: 4.5 Mostly because I had to add the different seam allowance amounts to the instructions. On some of the older patterns they did have the different seam allowance amounts in the instructions.

Construction Process: 5 It actually sewed up fairly quickly. I only took me 2 afternoons over a weekend.

Final Fit: 5 It fits so well and is so very comfortable. I've even used as a cover-up for going to the pool. Maybe a French terry version next time. Humm.

Overall Rating: 4.8 I think this wrap dress is great. It was really easy to cut out and sew, and it's so versatile.  And I really think Connie needs to officially add pockets to the pattern.

Customizing Matilda; Part 1

I have needed a dress form for a long time. Years ago I made one of those duct tape forms, but I had no way to actually use it. I had no stand to put it on so it hung on a hanger for years, unused, before it was eventually thrown out when my mother sold her house.

I had been hoping and saying someday for my own dress form since I started making my own clothes again, especially after taking some classes in Apparel Construction and Tailoring at Johnson County Community College. They have a fabulous Fashion Design and Merchandising Dept. So then this year for my birthday my fiancé got me one. It's an adjustable form. Fine. Only problem is, it doesn't go up large enough for me. *sigh* So I need to pad it to fit me. 

Before I get to far, I need to name my dress form. She came with a sticker which had the name Celine, but I think that was just a brand name. I've decided to name her Matilda because I like the name. It seems to fit.

So how do I make Matilda a second me. I kind of had an idea, but couldn't quite figure out something that would work.  Luckily for me the crafting class website, Craftsy.com (I'm a member, it's a free site and they have some free classes) has a class on making a dress form fit you called "Customize Your Dress Form." It's a great resource. 

To start I opened all the dials on Matilda to their maximum and then I measured and compared them to my measurements. One thing I need to figure out is how to lengthen her torso. Her center back measurement is 1 inch shorter than me, and her center front is 3 inches shorter. Hummm, this is going to take some figuring. More on that later.

So I watched the classes and went to work. I covered the openings with craft paper. The video recommends using oak tag or cut up file folders (same.thing). But I didn't have any and, being the impatient type when I want to start something, I went with what I had to hand, craft paper, the kind used for scrapbooking. I had it so I used it. The video also recommends using duct tape to attach the paper, something I can totally recommend. I used painters tape. Mistake! Painters tape is meant to be peeled off of the surface to which it is attached. Every time I brushed against it with my hand it kept wanting to peel off. I had already planned to put a knit fabric cover over Matilda before covering with padding, and now it turns out the cover was a good idea. It helps keep the tape from peeling off while I cover Matilda with the padding. The picture on the right of Matilda covered with the knit fabric was taken before I put the craft paper over the open spaces.

Now to make the outer cover for Matilda. It's recommend in the video that you use poplin for a cover. I like to go inexpensive and you can't get any more inexpensive than muslin. I suggest a middleweight quality muslin, not too flimsy yet not too stiff. You also don't want to pick a fabric color that will be too different. You want one that will look nice when the form is just standing in your workroom but won't clash with whatever fabric you might work on. That's another reason to use the muslin, specifically unbleached muslin. The natural ecru color is a nice neutral color.  If you wanted another type of fabric, broadcloth would be good, too. Most broadcloth comes in solid colors so you could go with a nice light gray or another color in a pale tone. Prints are not advised.

And then there's the pattern to use. It's suggested that you use a pattern with princess seams that go up to the shoulders both front and back. The video recommends a Vogue pattern, V8828, and three McCall's patterns, M6076, M6887, and M5847. Though the last one is out of print and may not be available at your fabric store. It is, however, still available on the McCall's website. I'm using a Connie Crawford design sold by Butterick, B5538. It's a blouse, but it fits me, I know because I've made it before, and it has the proper princess seams. Connie Crawford designs mostly for curvy, plus size ladies, however she does have sizes for Misses sizes, 3 to 20w. The pattern would have to be lengthened, but it's workable.

Among the other pattern companies, the only other pattern I found that has the correct princess seams is from New Look patterns. They are part of the Simplicity pattern company. The pattern is New Look 6299. It has a flared skirt which isn't necessary for the form cover. But that will be taken care of in the fitting process. 

Okay, so now what! Cut out the pattern. Because I'm using a pattern I've used before I didn't have to do any adjusting to my pattern other than adding to the seam allowances. All commercial patterns produced for home use have a 5/8" seam allowance already added to them. The video tells to add another 3/8" around each pattern piece so that you have a full inch of seam allowance. This is to make fitting easier. I didn't really pay attention to that part and added a full inch to the 5/8" and ended up with 1 5/8" seam allowance. OOPS!!! Oh well, at least I know I have enough room.

So now to sew it together. Using a basting stitch, which for me is the longest stitch on my machine, and a 1" seam, I sewed the cover together. Since it was late at night and I needed to get a zipper because the one I had was way too short. You'd think a 30 inch zipper would be long enough. Nope. So I just draped it on Matilda. Oh Boy, was she going to need padding out. So when I want and got the correct size zipper (a 36" upholstery zipper that was the last they had in stock) I also picked up another roll of high-loft quilt batting, just in case I needed more. If not, then I can use it on a future quilting project.

This is a work in progress, and as such will be a multi-part blog. Next time I will tell of the zipper installation, my darling fiancé helping me with fitting process, and possibly the padding of Matilda. Stay tuned for all the riveting details. Or as my favorite news commentator Rachel Maddow says with some of her stories, Watch this space. Ta-ta for now.

Cela

Wedding Costumes, Part 2

Okay, so in our last segment I just needed to serge the Şalvar pieces and put them together. The serging was pretty straightforward. No curves, no odd angles, just straight edges to sew. Excellent!

For those that have never seen, much less used a serger machine before, immediately to the right of the presser foot is a very sharp cutting blade that trims off excess fabric and/or threads from the garment pieces to give them a finished edge. Garment pieces can also be sewn together on the serger. Look at the seams of any garment you've bought from the store. Knit garments especially. All the stitching you see on the seam edges is done with an Overlock machine that is known commonly to home sewers as a Serger. These machines have been a Godsend to the home sewer. (I hate that specific Heteronym!) They allow the home sewer to make a garment that looks just as professionally made as anything produce at a fashion couture house. Though you have to be a bit careful when sewing with a serger if you've never done so before. I suggest practicing using some scrap fabric to get the hang of the machine before serging your actual garment pieces. I think one of  the reasons the machine is called a Serger is because it can Surge ahead of you if you aren't paying attention. But I digress.

So then I sewed the Şalvar together. First had to make sure I got the cut edges in the correct order. I separated the pieces and then opened them up. I had cut the pieces on the fold so I now had 2 big garment pieces cut straight along the bottom and top edges, and cut at an odd angle along both sides. If you look back down to Wedding Costumes, Part 1, you'll see what I mean. Putting the Right sides of the fabric together, I stitched both the pieces together along the upper angle cut.

 Then it was time to stitch the legs together. Because of the of angle of the edges, stitching the legs together required a stop in the middle where the crotch came together. I stitched all the way to the middle of the crotch seam, back-stitched a few stitches, made sure the needle was down in the middle of the seam, lifted the presser foot and turned the fabric to the new angle. When I started stitching again I made a few stitches, back-stitched back to the crotch seam, and then continued going forward along the seam to the end. Pretty straightforward, to those of us who sew on a regular basis. Though some are probably asking, "Why the extra backstitching?" Well, crotch seams are notorious for ripping out, especially in those garments not made very well. (I hesitate to use the word Cheap, but inexpensive clothes are made cheaply.) I just don't want DF's backside to come out at the wedding.

So next I stitched up the hem of the pants. All I did was a simple 1/2 inch hem. Because of the angle of the leg seam, I needed to let out the seam a little bit. Because there is a wide enough opening to accommodate DF's foot, I don't need to worry to much about seam coming apart. Also I did some additional back-stitching to insure the seam wouldn't seperate. I then just topstitched the hem in place.

I'm just glad I'm not making this costume for a historical reenactment because I would probably be laughed off the premises.   Historical reenactors are sticklers for accuracy.

The next-to-the-last thing to do on the Şalvar is the waistband. When I was looking at pictures of actual garments of the time period online I noticed that the waistband was just some other bit of fabric added to the top. It didn't have to match the garment fabric. Cool! While I like the fabric I chose, it would been too bulky for a waistband with a drawstring. So I chose a piece of scrap fabric I had that was the right length to fit the waist of the Şalvar. I cut it to a width of 4 inches to allow for seam allowances, serged the edges, and stitched it in place along one side after making sure to fold over the ends 1/2 inch. I did not stitch down the ends which I realize, in hindsight, would have made for a neater edge. But I can always do that by hand.

So with the waistband partially sewed on, time to finish it. Press the waistband so that the seam allowance is up on the waistband. Then fold the waistband down to cover the seam allowance and making sure the waistband edge is at least 1/4 inch past the seam allowance. I'm a bit of a perfectionist when I sew, so I decided to stitch-in-the-ditch, sewing from the right side very closely along the seam line. It's hard to do well and even the most experienced sewer will mess up once in a while.  Good thing this waistband will be under the rest of DF's costume so it doesn't have to be 100% perfect. Thank goodness!

The last thing I need to do is get them on DF again so I can mark the placement of the buttons and loops at the ankles. I'll be making matching buttons and stitching a line of thin elastic loops at the hem of the Şalvar to peg them. It was the fashion of the time, though probably not with elastic button loops.

Normally I'd have a picture of the finished garment, but I'm going to wait till I have everything done and DF gets to model. Hope you don't mind the wait.

Hello World!

Welcome to Cela Sews, the blog about me and my sewing. I have been sewing for over 40 years (did I just date myself??) and I like so show off my projects.

My maternal grandmother was a professional dressmaker back in the days when there was not a lot of manufacturing of clothing. Folks went to professional dressmakers and tailors to get their clothes, none of the conspicuous consumption we see women indulging in these days. I like to think I inherited some of my grandmother's eye and talent when it comes to making clothing and accessories.

What you will see on these pages are my projects, both in progress and the finished work.  They may be purses, pouches, and/or bags that I am making to sell on my soon to open store on Etsy.com, or they may be clothing or costumes I am making for friends or family.  Whatever they are, they will always be a project I have sewn.

Something to keep in mind when I post a project.  If it is a purse/pouch/bag I will also post templates and instructions so you can try and make one yourself.  Also, if I did not design the bag I direct you to the webpage where I found the project.  Though sometimes I will post printable templates as PDFs because many of the designers of the bags didn't think to do it, or they didn't know how to to make a PDF.

If the is an article of clothing I will NOT be posting any templates.  I will only post my thoughts, hints, and observations about the project.  And pictures, too.  I will also refer you to the pattern, pattern number, and the the company that printed it.

I hope you enjoy this blog, and thank you so much for your support.